In 2012, I paddled out before the sun came up in Manly, surfing as it rose. Today—on the same wild ocean but kilometres away—I wade into the water again, watching the waves crest and crumble through palm fronds jammed into the sand. The dew had made the top layer dark; and hopefully it had also run the dog piss off the car tyres. The foaming pacific felt warm and light as a cappuccino but the bared teeth of the mottled mongrels were chilling as they chased me off the beach. I can still hear their barking. The shore-break was detonating in rumbling, rolling white-outs while I remembered that half a lifetime ago (1998) I got my first guitar — as today (2016) I was getting another one.
At the altar a diving bell clangs
The broken seabed of marble gangs
Bares its pillars set stone in sand
That tonnes of pressure and weighing hands
Buried dark in the silent deep
In hell-sized holes dug with sailors’ teeth
And under them, muted scales of rust
The honeycombed bones, and the sunken bust
Of an echo, a broken shell throne
A well-spring of tears whence the ocean did grow
Shine the torch and hear her song
But see no mouth, no eyes sidelong
With fevered tugs signal “ascend”
Leave these shadows, but ware the bends
Octopus beaks in sandy deep
Coral castles on rusted wrecks
Between them cold currents creep
Ghosting footsteps on sodden decks
No siren call under tonnes of pressure
No heat to feel through all the fathoms
Though glow do the bubbling fissures
Boiling down all sunken atoms
Pirates and castaways, in our white youth
My brother and I set oars through salt, orphans of the ocean
Pouncing upon an anchored galleon,
its rigging rustling above bare decks and mocktails,
we clambered over the ghost ship
Capturing it without even bloodying our cutlasses
Buccaneers, with smoking fuses for hair
The Fijian lagoon was at our whim and mercy
But not the tides…
Left stranded, now we lit flares
Deciding we had need of a mother afterall